Cablipstick, unveiled!

And I am also unveiling the world’s worst set of FO pics ever. It’s quite difficult to take good photos when a) husband has the tripod b) husband is not home c) you are stuck in the worst lighting because it hasn’t stopped raining in days and d) you aren’t that great of a photographer to begin with.

If I was selling this pattern (and I hesitate to say the write-up that follows is a pattern, but anyhoo) I would have insisted on a nice photo shoot with el-hubbo, who has a very new, very expensive digicam – thank you, refinance. But alas, I am not, and I was home alone yesterday and happy to be finished with this project, so I went ahead and took these terrible, terrible photos. Including one where I tried to shoot over my shoulder and got a pic of my ear. I had to include that one here. It’s worth a laugh.

But in the end, oh well! I’m finished! It’s turkey day tomorrow! And I cancelled two classes out of three and in the class session still scheduled, I’m showing a movie. Yeehaw!

So, the Cablipstick. It went through the frog pond (see previous post) and I’m glad I did. I took in about two inches; this yarn does grow a bit through wear. I really like the fit and I have learned quite a bit through the design process. True, I think I got a bit lucky, but after reading several top-down raglan patterns (does anyone else read patterns just for kicks? I do. I know, I know) and knitting one completely, I think I *get* it. So much so I just started hubby’s sweater. But that’s for another day.

Okay, enough chit chat! Let’s talk specifics. The pic above shows the color most accurately (and yes, there is the stripe in there where I didn’t use two skeins. Gug.) Notice the waist shaping – or to be more accurate, the lack of hip shaping. Since most of you actually have hips, your sweaters probably look a bit different. (Sigh.)

More pics and the “pattern” below…

I hesitate to call this a pattern… Because with the exception of the initial cast-on and counting sts before ribbing portions, I have no stitch counts. As in, I never kept track; that’s the beauty of top-down raglans. You knit to fit, not to count.So, don’t call this a pattern – call it an… explanation. Even if I revert to pattern-speak at times. This way, if you want to knit this, you can follow the same basic steps to determine how to cast on, and from there, you try on and adjust as you go. Easy peasy. (Really. If I can do this, you most definitely can.) Since I’m a beginner, and I like LOTS of detail, that’s how I wrote this up. If someone who is more experienced actually plans on knitting this, sorry … You’ll have to wade through lots of words. Since I use the free version of WordPress and I’m not all that skilled with web design, I don’t know if I can place a pdf download here; but if you’d like one, please email me auragone AT gmail DOT com and I’ll send you one once I’ve woken up from my turkey binge.

• Explanattern: Cablipstick Sweater, designed my me!
• Yarn: Handpainted yarn (Malabrigo) 6-ply bulky in “Cognac,” 5 skeins, 165 yards ea. I wear between a small and a medium in women’s tops; I’m a medium on top, and a small on the bottom. Because I have a guy’s figure, with the addition of boobs (and the subtraction of manly bits, thankfully.)
• Needles: US 9 and 10s, circs (I used 16″, 24″ and 32″ – can you say interchangeables please?), DPNs in US 10 if that’s how you roll with sleeve-knitting
• Gauge: 15.5 sts per 4″ on US 10s, in stockinette

Abbreviations (beyond the k for knit, p for purl, etc.)

• x-st: Ignore the first st on the left needle and knit the second st, but do not drop it; then knit into the first stitch; drop both. This creates a right leaning leaning cable.
• c6f: slip next 3 sts from left needle onto cable needle; hold in front; knit next 3 sts on left needle, then knit 3 sts off cable needle
• pm: place marker
• BOR: beginning of round.

Notions: You will need a cable needle, scrap yarn, stitch markers, and tapestry needle to weave in ends. I use stitch markers of different colors to denote different sections (esp to denote my BOR/EOR placement). There’s a pic below to illustrate this – it may seem off but remember, you’re knitting top down, so when you’re holding it, it grows upside-down, if that makes sense.

A note about this yarn: it’s fuzzy. It’s not super tightly spun (but not overly loose either). It’s going to pill and it’ll lose some stitch definition. But it’s warm, soft, pretty, and shows off a cable nicely. It makes a dense knit, and so I made this on the tight side (I’m a tight knitter as a rule)- bulky does seem to add pounds, IMO. If you use a variegated yarn, don’t be dumb like me and just switch to the next skein when the previous runs out. Alternate your yarn every two rounds or so. (Look at my pics – can you see the big block in the middle where I didn’t follow this advice?) This sweater would also be great knit with a light worsted yarn on 7s. Hmmm….

This entire sweater is knit in one piece, from the top of the folding portrait collar down. The collar, cuffs and bottom ribbing feature a 2 by 1 mini-cable rib. The mini-cables are achieved by knitting three rows in 2 by 1 (k2, p1) rib, and on the fourth row, x-st, p. From here on, it’s referred to as “x-st” (see abbreviations).

Initial cast-on: Design wise, I knew I wanted a wide, split portrait collar, and I measured a top I already own that features a similar design. That collar opening was 22″; because I knew that cables/ribbing pull in, I did the math for 24″. I multiplied my gauge of 3.875 * 24 and got 93. Because I wanted to have cables flanking each end of the collar, I needed to CO a number divisible by 3, plus 2. (This way, I didn’t have a column of purl stitches bordering one end). 92 did the trick. If you want a wider or narrower collar, simply adjust the inches and multiply by your gauge. However, your CO number must be divisible by 3, plus an additional 2 sts.

Pattern speak: Using US 10, 16″ circular needles, CO 92 sts. Do not join. First row is a WS row: *p2, k1, repeat * to last 2 sts; p2. Row 2 (RS): *k2, p1, repeat * to last 2 sts; k2. Row 3: repeat Row 1. Row 4: *x-st, p1; repeat from * to last 2 sts; x-st. Repeat Rows 1-4 until collar is approximately 4.5 inches long, or to desired folding point. Switch to US 9s, and continue in pattern to within approximately 3/4″ of total desired collar length. (My collar is just under 7 inches in length total).

At this point, I knit four rows in plain 2 by 1 rib without executing the x-st. Once folded, this part of the collar (near the neckline) is not visible, and I wanted the collar to relax a bit. Note: your last row of the collar should be a RS row, so that when you turn the work, the WS is facing you.

Next, you will be joining the collar and begin knitting in the round. Switching to US 10s, and with the WS facing, k to end of row; do not turn, but join. The simplest way to do this is to simply keep knitting. However, the way I did this was to kfb in the last st; move ONE st from right needle to left, k2tog. Place marker; this is your BOR marker. (In diagram, this the blue marker).

You will now proceed to knit every st and place markers; you’re going from the front right shoulder across the front (placing markers for the center cable) to the left shoulder; then to the back of the left shoulder; next, to the back of the right shoulder; and then you’ll be back in the beginning. Note that the collar splits at the front right shoulder seam.

The marker placement is as follows: K 8; pm; k 16; pm; k 8; pm; k 14 (first set of sleeve sts); k 32; pm; k 14 (second set of sleeve sts). You are back at the BOR marker. Blue = BOR. Green = cable section. Pink – sleeves and back.

NOTE: READ THE NEXT TWO PARAGRAPHS FIRST BEFORE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS. YOU’RE MULTITASKING HERE, DOING TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF INCREASES AND ALL SORTS OF JAZZ. READ FIRST, THEN EXECUTE. (Not me, please – execute the directions, ha ha.)

From this point on, you will be making raglan increases every other round. Begin raglan increases on the next round by kfb in the stitch before and after each sleeve marker – that’s the blue and pink markers (8 sts increased). Note: on non increase rounds, you just knit as normal, slipping markers, with no increases.

During this first increase round, you also need to do the initial set-up for the cable pattern. When you reach the 16 sts set off in markers on the front of the piece (denoted by green in pic above), evenly increase 4 sts in this section. These increases are not visible (the collar covers them) so appearance isn’t an issue (I used kf&b). You are increasing to accommodate the “pulling in” of the cables and rib. THIS IS A ONE TIME ONLY INCREASE.

Note: Until I discuss placing sts on scrap yarn for sleeves, I am assuming you’re going to execute the raglan increases every other row. So, keep doing that; but now it’s time to discuss the center cable.

At this point, you’ve knit two rounds after joining. The first placed the markers; the second round began raglan increases and completed the one-time only increases within the cable section. Now begin the center cable pattern. Please note it’s an 8-row repeat. However, I like to begin large cables after knitting only half the rows dictated by the rest of the cable pattern. This way, there isn’t extra width at the top (esp. since you just increased 4 sts; why wait another 7 rounds to cross?). Okay, that doesn’t make sense even to me. Just go with it.

You have 20 sts placed between (green) markers. For the sake of clarity, let’s renumber the rounds at 1. Once you get to the cable-panel sts, knit as follows:

1. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
2. Repeat Row 1 (k the ks and p the ps)
3. Repeat Row 1 (k the ks and p the ps)
4. k2, p1, x-st, p2, c6f, p2, x-st, p1, k2.

From this point on, follow this 8-row repeat:

1. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
2. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
3. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
4. k2, p1, x-st, p2, k6, p2, x-st, p1, k2
5. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
6. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
7. k2, p1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, p1, k2
8. k2, p1, x-st, p2, c6f, p2, x-st, p1, k2.

So, where are we, and what the hell are we doing? The collar will fold over to reveal the right side of mini-cable ribbing and hopefully will “splay” quite nicely at raglan seam. By increasing, you’re making the sweater grow wide enough to fit over your shoulders and eventually divide for sleeves. You’re also simultaneously making a pretty little cable panel in the front. Keep in mind that you’re going to get quite a few stitches on those needles; at any time, switch to your 24″ needle, and then to your 32″. The pay off is that once you are knitting the body only, it goes MUCH faster.

When do you stop increasing, anyway? The quick answer, is when it fits you how you like it. The more detailed answer is, when the raglan seams meet under your pit. (Sorry, underarm.) This can mean many things. It can mean they just barely meet; you have to do some pulling/stretching to do this. This will give you a tighter-fitting sweater (and too tight can mean it will bind under the arms). This can mean the seams meet without much resistance – you’ve got plenty of width, and hence, your sleeves and body will be looser. The main advice I can give you is to try this puppy on LOTS during the increase phase, perhaps even getting someone to hold the raglan seams down for you so you can see how the sweater will lay without twisting your arms into a pretzel.

You may also find that you need just a bit more length to get the raglan seams to meet, but you don’t necessarily need more width. Or, your sleeves are the right width (as measured by your bicep circumference) but the body isn’t there yet. At this point, you have many options: you can knit a few rounds without increasing; and then increase as normal; you can knit more rounds but increase only on the front and back, omitting the sleeve increases… You get the picture. The point is, you can make this fit exactly how you want it.

For me, towards the end of my raglan increases, I found I needed some length but not much more body width, and I didn’t want any more sleeve width. At that point, I knit two rounds plain, then one round where I increased only for front and back (4 sts). I tried it on once more, and it was perfect. BTW, my raglan seams are a hair under 8.5″ long.

A NOTE ABOUT TRYING THIS ON: I find it one huge ass pain to thread live stitches on scrap yarn and then have to put them back on the needles… Since I use KnitPicks options needles, I treated myself to a 60″ cable. It’s easy and quick to slip the stitches onto a 60″ circ, and you can even just knit right onto this and try the sucker on, then knit back onto a 24″ or 32″ cable. All you need to do is switch the needle tips.

Dividing for sleeves: Okay, as much as I just dogged the scrap yarn, now it’s time to get yours. Knit across front to first sleeve marker; remove marker, and place the sts up until the next sleeve marker on scrap yarn. Keep this marker. Knit across the back (you’re joining here; it’ll probably be loose) until the next sleeve marker; remove marker; place the sts up until the next marker (your BOR marker) on scrap yarn. Keep this marker. Resume knitting (joining again). You are now knitting the body only – you’ll get to those sleeves later.

Body knitting: you’re done increasing to fit, but you’re certainly not done with the cable pattern. Keep going as normal there. As far as waist shaping, I have no solid advice (especially since my figure is an inverted triangle, argh) except to TRY THIS ON OFTEN and decrease to fit your particular shape. You can keep it boxy and do few to zero decreases; or you can keep it very fitted and start decreasing at the bust line. (Knit the decreases at each marker). The one thing I can say is that spacing the decreases closer than an inch apart can make the garment look puckered.

Because this is knit at a larger gauge, you may want to decrease 1 st per side rather than the traditional two sts; (decreasing 4 sts removes about an inch). However, since I have such a weird figure, I did decrease by two sts around my lower waist area. The point is, you control this part – you can decrease for the waist and increase for the hips just as it pleases you. BUT PLEASE TRY THIS PUPPY ON as you go – I have learned this lesson far too many times.

Knit until the body is approximately four inches shorter than the total length you wish it to be, ending on Row 7 of the cable pattern. On the next round, begin the mini cable rib again as described for the collar. But wait – you have two cable ribs in the center cable panel already. Wouldn’t it be nice if they continued down, uninterrupted? I thought so.

Count the total number of stitches on your needle. If it’s divisible by 3, you’re gravy. If not, you’ll need to decrease (or increase) your number. (I didn’t have to, because for once I was lucky, but if you do, it’s easy to do that on the sides where it’s inconspicuous.) Next, find the first mini-cable rib, and count backwards in groups of three toward your BOR marker, finding the last trio of sts before this spot. This is where you will start the mini-cable rib, ensuring you don’t interrupt that long line of mini-cables.

Switching to your US 9 needles, you’re going to x-st right away: *x-st, p; repeat from * until all sts are incorporated into the ribbing pattern. You may go a stitch or two past the BOR marker – I just moved it to the new spot and called it good.

Next three rounds: *k2, p1; repeat * to end.

Fourth round: *x-st, p1; repeat * to end.

Continue in this pattern for approximately 4 inches, then BO in pattern. I ended on the third round of k2, p1 – just to the point where you would x-st again. Instead, I bound off and wove in my ends and took a lot of pictures.

Sleeve time! Using your preferred method of small-circumference knitting (I used Magic Loop) with your US 10s, remove scrap yarn and place live sts on needles. Join, pm, and begin knitting in the round. Knit for approximately four inches, then begin decreasing about every inch – remember, you can try this on and make the sleeves as snug or as loose as you like.

On my Cablipstick, the sleeves feature a folded edge of more mini-cable ribbing (to mimic the folded collar) and end just before the elbow. However, you could easily make this long-sleeved, 3/4 sleeved…. Just knit it to the length you want it, and shape it how you want it. The write-up here is for the pictured version.

Because the sleeves fold up to reveal the ribbing, you have to knit this portion on the WS, or with the sweater inside out. I really didn’t quite know how to handle this, but it turned out okay, so here’s what I did:

When the sleeves reach just before the elbow, turn sleeve inside out and draw up needles and yarn. The live yarn will be on the left needle tip instead of the right. Slip that first st to the right needle, and began knitting normally (k every stitch) – basically you are reversing the order. When you get to the end of this round, you have to join again – for me this was a bit loose, so I picked up the running thread, put it on the left needle (as in m1), and knit that together with the next stitch, and went about my way. It’s not noticeable and tightened everything up nicely.

Knit three or four rounds plain, increasing or decreasing to get a stitch count divisable by 3. (I had 42). Then knit two rounds in k2, p1 rib. Next round: begin cable ribbing as before (x-st, p1), doing the x-st on every fourth row. Don’t switch to your US 9 needles – this has to stretch to fit over the stockinette fabric. Knit mini-cable ribbing until desired length – mine is about 3.5″ long, and BO in pattern. Pull sleeve right-side out, and fold – it’ll fold naturally at the break from stockinette to reverse stockinette. (You probably could avoid this by knitting a longer section of plain knitting after you turn sleeve inside out – that would probably look better. I could live with mine, so I did). Repeat for other sleeve.

Finishing: fix underarm area (it’s probably got a small hole) and reinforce collar split, if desired. (Single crochet or fudge it, like I did). Weave in ends. Block lightly, if desired.

Yay! You’ve got a cablipstick!